We’ve talked a bit about body types before- but consider this the master post.

Let’s be clear, you can wear whatever you want. But if you are looking to present a “feminine” figure, then you have to be aware of certain rules. If you don’t care to camouflage, or are more androgynous or genderqueer- then by all means get down with your bad self. This is just meant to be a guide for minimizing masculine features.

Body Types

First you need to know the types of bodies we are dealing with. There is the hourglass, pear, apple, inverted triangle, and column. Each have certain properties that will have to be addressed.

Hourglass

Right off the bat, let’s be honest. Sadly, not many trans women are blessed with hourglass figures. If you are, then you are a lucky one indeed. Your battle is a downhill one. After all, this is usually the most desired shape. It means your shoulders and hips are roughly the same width and your waist is smaller and more defined. It’s the stereotypical female shape. Think Marilyn Monroe.

Pear

It’s just like it sounds. Your shoulders and chest are smaller than your waist, hips, and thighs. In order to draw attention- you will be looking to pull the eye up north, away from the mid-section.

Apple

Apple bodies have a larger waist and an average chest, usually with a wider back, flatter butt, and smaller arms and legs. Again, you’ll want to divert attention from the middle of your body towards the legs, bust, and arms. Very common shape for transgender women.

Inverted Triangle

This is another really common shape to see on transgender women, and a frustrating one for many. Broad shoulders and slimmer hips and mid-section. As you can imagine, you will want to draw the eye away from the bust and shoulders. We will talk about that below.

Column

This is a slender shape with narrow shoulders, chest, and hips. Almost no body shape or curves to be seen. But that can be fixed by defining some shape in the body.

The Clothes

Here are some tips for different types of clothes. Remember, this is just a guideline.

Skirts and Dresses

Fit and flare, or A-Line dresses and skirts are wonderful for creating a wider shape for the hips and drawing the eye. The contrast of fits can really minimize the chest and shoulders for those apple and inverted triangle types. However pears should avoid these in general, as it exaggerates the shape. Columns can pull this off too, but make sure to go with a more moderate flare or you might look more like a bell than a belle.

Avoid body contouring, or bodycon, style dresses or skirts for the most part. You will create no shape, and only accentuate your natural shape. And, what most people won’t tell you- you will easily be able to see if you are wearing any kind of shapewear. Any hip pads, or butt pads, or spanks are going to be painfully obvious.

Pants

I know skinny jeans and pants are in. But this is another tough one for trans women to pull off. Not only do you run into our natural problem between the legs, you are again not creating a new shape. Just showing what you already have. Boot cut is your friend. An added bonus of boot cut pants? They can help hide larger shoes for those girls that have slightly bigger feet. Skinny jeans will REALLY exaggerate the size of your feet. Not good for most of us.

Tops

The biggest rule I’ve learned is this- just say no to cap sleeves. Yes, they look cute, but they will absolutely not hide your shoulders at all. They exaggerate them to the nth degree. You might as well put on a shoulder-padded blouse straight out of “Dynasty”.

Go for structure and flow, avoid form-fitting. Again, we land on this point. A little clingy is fine, but you want a little structure to it. Skintight is not going to flatter you unless you naturally have a very feminine shape. And luckily, flow is in right now. This summer all I am seeing practically are flow-y tops. Usually sleeveless. And believe me, sleeveless is far better than cap sleeves. And no- I have no clue why.

And go for v-necks over deep scoop necks. A scoop neck creates a wide picture. A v-neck draws the eyes down towards the chest and mid-section away from the shoulders. And believe it or not- a v-neck can help slenderize the face as it draws the eye down.

Belts

So, belts are a double edged sword. They can be wonderful tools for creating shape by defining a waist, but with the wrong body shape and wrong best- they can be horrid. Belts are great for pear, and inverted triangle, and especially column body shapes. A solid-color wide belt can really cut into (visually) a mid-section and carve out (visually) a waist to create a curvier look. On an apple, a wide belt is going to look…not good. My advice is that you still need to create a line there to define a waist- so just go with a thinner belt. They look better on wider mid-sections.

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Shoes

I don’t want to be the one to break this to you- but shoes are often the bane of a trans woman’s existence. Either you can’t find shoes in your size, or you find a display pair that looks cute but does NOT translate to larger sizes well, or everything in your size looks like it was made on a dare. Finding shoes that look good, feel good, and cost…good are little marvelous unicorns. But there are things you should know.

In general, your size in women’s shoes is two sizes larger than the size of your old shoes. There is variance- but that’s pretty typical. Please, don’t wear smaller shoes because they are cuter or you are self-conscious. All you will do is mess up your feet and be miserable. Believe me- it’s not worth it. I’ve done it.

Next, boots are tricky as well. I find it odd that I’ve always been able to wear boots in almost one size smaller than any other type of shoes. So strange. However the problem is that I have larger more muscular calves. So if you don’t have average to slender legs, you might have problems. I have tried on and ordered many a boot where apparently my calf can’t be taymed and will not fit.

Toes. Okay, this one is a tough sell but hear me out. Pointy toes are not your friends. This is the secret women have learned over the years. Yes, pointed toes can look very elegant and feminine. But in order to accommodate your toes and still point- the shoes become much longer. This is going to make your feet look MUCH larger. And it’s really tough to find a pair that are comfortable. That’s pretty important for those who are just getting used to women’s shoes.

Finally- a bummer for summer and one that many trans women don’t want to accept. Sandals, they are just a difficult thing to pull off. Larger feet just become exaggerated in sandals. With more skin available and toes showing- there is less hiding your feet. So if you are trying to camouflage, this is not a good idea. Unfortunately, most of us hold remnants of our old life in our feet. They are usually larger, and not as well taken care of. So keep that in mind.

General Rules for Dressing to Transition

Dark Colors De-emphasize and Light Colors Emphasize. Use accordingly

That means, if you have large shoulders and chest, white or neon green is probably not your frand.

Stripes and Patterns Can Be Strategic

• Busy patterns on a top can really help a pear shape. Conversely, a busy pattern on a bottom or skirt can help an inverted triangle
• Vertical stripes lengthen and horizontal widen. Use this knowledge accordingly. And a note, wide stripes work best on fuller figures. But diagonal stripes work best.
• Blocks of color are great for defining shape for apples and columns. Strategically placed side blocks with subtle shaping towards the middle can help create more of a figure.

Wear Clothes That Fit

Should be a no-brainer, but I see it often. And I have been guilty too. When you are trying to build a closet you grab whatever you can. And often when first shopping in public you might be too scared to try something on. Or you get it online and it just doesn’t fit. Don’t wear it. Sell it, return it, or donate it. It will do you no favors. Remember, tight clothes emphasize a male figure and loose clothes just look sloppy and define nothing at all. And if you are bigger, buy your right size. You will not look magically smaller if you can squeeze into an XL if you need an XXL. Suck it up, and buy the right size. There is no shame in it. Women come in all sizes.

Dress Appropriate to Your Age

Again, not dictating what’s okay to wear. But it’s just a simple truth that dressing for an age that doesn’t suit you is a sure way to stand out. For us that means getting clocked. That means if you are fifty, body contouring minis and leggings that say “Juicy” are not your best bet. There are plenty of ways to dress fashionably and keep a youthful look without going to cliches. Believe me, it will boost your confidence. Dressing like you are an 18-year-old “scene kid” will not boost your confidence.

Keep it Current

This is another “unwanted attention” reminded. Wearing leopard print spandex and leg warmers is not the norm, and hasn’t for a long time. Some people can pull off retro looks, but if you can’t- you should avoid it. If for no other reason, avoid so you don’t hurt your confidence. Ask yourself how many cis women you see dress that way. That’s a good guideline to go by.

As a result I see, usually older, trans women often sticking to the era they wish they could have dressed or when they first felt feminine. That leads to a lot of middle-aged trans women dressing like extras from “Dynasty”. You are going to stick out. The silk blouses, gaudy dresses, and ungodly shoulder pads are not a good luck and will get you stares. A cis woman would get stares in those get-ups, so this isn’t a “picking on you” thing. Believe me, I wish I could pull off retro and pinup, but it just doesn’t look good on me. I’m not one of those people.

Don’t Wear Uncomfortable Clothes

This goes back to the size thing, but also any cuts that make you uncomfortable or just things that don’t look right. Don’t wear something just because it’s in the closet. If you are uncomfortable, it will show. You will look uncomfortable, and your confidence will plummet. Plus, you’ll just be plain miserable. You may have always dreamed of wearing skyscraper heels. But if you aren’t used to them you will be in pain as well as walking like a baby gazelle.

Preemptive Action

I have no doubt this will get shared or commented with great exasperation from those who take offense at everything with remarks like, “HOW DARE SHE TELL ME WHAT TO WEAR!!!” or “WHO DOES SHE THINK SHE IS!” or “I’LL WEAR WHAT I WANT!!!!!!!11111OMGWTFBBQ”.

The fact is, these are just general fashion and clothing tips. And they apply to everyone, cis/trans/male/female/whatever. This information is gathered from years of experience, suggestions, and research. And I think if you give them a chance, you will find clothing less intimidating and have greater success creating the look you are going for.

In the end, wear whatever you want that makes you feel good. These are just guidelines and suggestions that will help those that want to pass and not get unwanted attention. If you don’t care, then great- you do you. Frankly, I could care less if you want to go to the Piggly Wiggly in a Supergirl costume, moon boots, and a top hat. Just don’t get upset if you get stares and weird looks and start screaming about “Why is everyone looking at me!!!”.

No need to get in a tizzy- it seems like this article just wasn’t for you. They won’t all be.

Originally on Cosmopolitan.com
When Kelly – formerly known as boxing promoter Frank Maloney – strutted into the Celebrity Big Brother house recently, it was a bit of a first for the transgender community. Men choosing to live as a women has always existed, but by making such a public appearance in her new feminine get-up, Kelly helped to chip away at the ignorant view some people still have on the subject. We chatted to Jodie Lynn, a makeup artist who has dedicated her career to helping men reveal the woman within…

“I have been obsessed with makeup for as far back as I can remember.”

I loved the smell of it and the different shades and colours. My parents bought me one of those mannequin heads as a child and I virtually wore it out! I had a fascination with drag queens from a young age too – using makeup to switch genders seemed so powerful to me.”

“My clients vary in age from 15 to 96, from cleaners to politicians.”

There really is no trend in who transgenderism affects – Christians, Jews, Muslims… Everyone! The majority of my clients are living in the closet. Most of the time, nobody knows their secret apart from me. The transvestite clients normally live a heterosexual existence with a wife and family who have no idea that they have been sporadically dressing as a woman for years. They don’t wish to transition or change gender, they just have an overwhelming desire to dress as a female every so often. These clients will come to me for a makeover and a dressing-up session but they have to change back at the end and go back to their normal lives.

“There is no specific male-to-female makeup course.”

Instead, I went for lessons with an amazing transsexual woman called Pandora De’Pledge who sadly died a few years ago from cancer. Pandora had been one of the Barbettes (Transsexual waitresses and performers) at Madame Jo Jo’s back in the 1980’s. She was big, blonde and beautiful and could carve out a female face on any man and make them look amazing. Pandora taught me about the main differences between a male and female face and how to address these by using clever hi-lighting, contouring and shading. She was amazing and I will always be incredibly grateful for her invaluable advice.

“I own a London makeup studio called The Boudoir.”

I give my clients a makeover then take them out onto Oxford Street, Covent Garden and Knightsbridge. This is a whole new challenge for them as it involves them trying to “pass” in public. Rarely do we get stares, though. We go out as a group – have sat in the Royal Box at the theatre and attended over 10 Royal Ascots. We don’t do things by half and when we do it, we do it with style and dignity. I was recently offered the chance to buy a similar business in West Hollywood. London and LA are both fabulous places to be a transgender person – you can just blend in and enjoy your day.

“I don’t like wigs that look like wigs.”

I tend to use Noriko, Renee of Paris or Amore ones – they are all great quality synthetic. I love human hair wigs too but they need heat styling every time you wear them and for a lot of my clients who have to keep their wig hidden away, they just don’t have the time, patience or expertise to completely restyle a wig every time they wear it. I really like the gradient colour wigs with darker roots, especially in the blonde and lighter brown tones. The darker roots just make the wig look more real and for most of my girls, that is what it is all about.

“I have watched my clients break down and cry after their makeovers.”

Sometimes it’s the first time that they have ever seen themselves looking realistic as a female. It can be totally overwhelming and somewhat of a relief. It can also be quite frightening for them as it suddenly presents a whole world of possibilities that they never felt that they had before. One client who has now been successfully transitioned to female for the past five years said that when she first came to me, she was hoping that I would make her look horrible so that she could shelve all the feelings and then perhaps it would go away. When she saw how I made her look and more importantly, how it made her feel, her world turned upside down because she suddenly realized that her dreams to live as a woman were now a possibility.

JODIE LYNN’S TOP TIPS FOR TRANSGENDER MAKEOVERS

1. CONCEALING STUBBLE

“Heavy stubble can be disguised using a Red Mehron Paint Stick to neutralise the blue tones in the shadow, before using Kryolan TV Paint Stick over the top. This is theatrical makeup made to withstand the heat from theatre lights, so good for a person wearing a wig that’s stopping heat escaping from their head. For less heavy shadow I tend to use MAC Full Coverage or MAC Pro Longwear Foundation because of their durability. MAC are a very Transgender supportive company. Translucent powder is also crucial to set the foundation and stop it from lifting around the beard area.”

2. SHAPING EYEBROWS WITHOUT PLUCKING

“Eyebrows can be disguised and reshaped using eyebrow wax. The wax needs to be applied to the hairs that you want to disguise and leave the hairs behind that you want to create a nice arched shape with. Then you can apply foundation over the wax followed by a lighter coloured eyeshadow such as white or cream.”

3. CREATING FEMALE CONTOURS

“There are 18 structural differences between a male and female face, and I address this with very structured contouring. I shade MAC Bronzer in Golden Refined on the temples to slim the forehead down, the sides of the nose to reduce the width, the indent of the cheeks to make a sharper cheek bone, and the jaw line to round off and soften the typical square male jaw. I also highlight the top of the cheekbone, the middle of the nose, the middle of the forehead, the middle of the top lip, and the middle of the chin with a very light dusting of white eye shadow.”

4. PLUMPING LIPS

“Women generally have fuller lips than men, so I need to line the lips outside of their natural lip line, but without creating that sex doll look. I then fill in with a lipstick using a lip brush, powder over, dust away the excess and then reapply. This makes the colour stronger, prevents bleeding and helps the lipstick to stay on all night. I also add a small amount of white eye shadow to the middle of the bottom lip to give it a fuller appearance.”

Find out more at Jodie’s website for Le Boudoir.

Source
Author: Cassie Powney

I share your passion – but let’s face it: learning to walk in heels is a daunting task for cis and transgender women alike! Fortunately, it’s something anybody can master with practice.

Ready to polish your supermodel strut? Here are 10 essential tips for walking in heels:

1. Work your way up. The higher the heel, the greater the challenge, so start with a pair of heels no more than two inches tall. Once you’ve mastered that pair, you try a higher heel.

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2. Practice standing in heels. Before you take your first step, practice your balance by standing in heels. Experiment with different poses as you get used to the added height.

3. Improve your posture. Keep your shoulders back, your spine tall, and your chest forward. Good posture keeps you steady in the highest of heels.

4. Take a few steps. Now you’re ready to walk! Take your first steps on a hard surface since carpet can throw off your balance.
5. Point your feet forward. In the beginning women tend to turn their feet out as they walk, so remember to keep both feet perfectly parallel.

6. Keep your legs together. Women walk with their legs close together, so imagine that you are placing each foot along the edge of a ruler – you shouldn’t have more than two inches between your feet.

7. Shorten your stride. Big steps can trip you up; instead take small, delicate steps. The higher the heel, the shorter your stride should be.

8. Straiten your legs. Bent knees throw off your balance and look inelegant. Practice walking with strait legs.

9. Challenge yourself. Once you’ve mastered the basics, try turning in different directions. Take a few steps on different floor surfaces and practice your stride on stairs.

10. Practice makes perfect. Walking in heels is totally different from walking in tennis shoes, so don’t expect instant success. Just keep practicing and soon you’ll be strutting with the best of us!

It is this thickening that makes your voice become deeper. Think of it like guitar strings- the thicker the string the lower the tone. For trans men, this means that HRT will alter your voice and give you a more traditionally masculine voice. Unfortunately, no amount of estrogen or testosterone blocking will skinny up your vocal chords. It’s one of the sad truths about HRT for transgender women- we just don’t experience as many physical changes as trans men do.

There are surgeries that you can undergo to attempt to change your voice, but these can be risky and are most certainly expensive. Luckily, however, you can train your voice to become more “feminine” by altering your pitch, tone, and speech pattern. It isn’t a quick or easy fix, but it has worked for countless trans women and it can work for you. These are the techniques that have been used long before we had the alternatives of surgery. No matter where your voice is now, no matter how deep, you can make headway. Now, you won’t go from Barry White to Mariah Carey- let’s be honest here. However, you will see a difference if you put in the work.

Here, the beautiful and prolific Stef Sanjati goes over the exercises and practices she has employed over the last year for voice training and displays the results comparing her own voice over the course of a year.

Just remember, it’s more than pitch. Talking like Mickey Mouse isn’t going to accomplish your goal. You need to keep in mind pitch, tone, and flow (speech patterns)- it is only in altering all three that you will get the results you want.

One final note, please keep in mind what Stef says in her video. It is important that you are doing this for the right reasons. Don’t do it because you feel obligated, or because you think it is expected. Do it because it is something you want and it will help you to feel more complete. As with every stage of transition, do voice training because it is what you want.

Check out Stef’s YouTube Channel for more great videos.

Thankfully, there are a wealth of tutorial videos out there.

Sinead Cady, and her YouTube channel- The Makeup Chair, have been putting out makeup tutorials for years. She covers many basic concepts and skills that are vital to really master the art of makeup.

So here are a few of our favorites that we think will give you a solid base. Some may seem simple and much less than you might want or need to do. However it is in learning these basic concepts and skills that you are able to master more advanced techniques.

1. Eye Makeup Basics and Tips

2. Highlighting and Contouring in 5 Steps

3. Eyeliner in 5 Steps

4. Day-Time Smokey Eyes

5. Flawless Foundation in 5 Steps